The national park is a few hours north-east of UB. Inside the park we stayed in a gher camp. We had our own bedroom gher, we ate at the restaurant gher, and we read in the library gher, which was the only place with a light bulb powered by a solar battery. There were horses, yaks, and rafts at our disposal during the day. Every night before bed, and in the morning, somebody would come in to light up the fire in the chimney to make sure we were nice and toasty inside.